YSD LONDON X ALCOVE ONOMICHI: A simple guide to visiting Japan
Over the years, we have helped many of friends and clients who are looking for some advice upon visiting Japan for the first time. It’s always been our main goal to help break down that slightly intimidating barrier of visiting a country that’s so very different from your own, so that you can enjoy it to its fullest potential.
Japan is a country that, when you know the little tips and tricks to how it operates, can be an amazing place to visit. We hope that the below information will help get your trip off to a smooth start! At the end, we’ve also provided some custom maps for our favourite areas as well as some hidden gems that we love to recommend to our friends. We hope it’ll all come in handy for you!
UPON LANDING
Have heavy or bulky suitcases, and an onward journey or distant hotel booked? Have no fear- Japan has a national luggage forwarding service that many hotels will be familiar with. Kuroneko Yamato has kiosks at all main airport terminals and will happily send oversized luggage to your destination. All you will need is the address of the place you want to send to, and the staff will organise for your suitcases to be sent ahead of you, so you can navigate the streets with ease. Make sure you bring an overnight bag, as it usually takes 24 hours for your luggage to arrive. Many hotels will also be able to send your luggage forward for you, negating the need to book luggage inclusive seats on the bullet train.
We also advise you to either book in advance, or rent at the airport, a pocket wifi machine to give you roaming data for when you need to use your phone. Japanese public wifi hotspots are quite tricky to connect to, and coverage will often be patchy, so be sure to research either a data sim or pocket wifi before you leave (especially as some airports do not offer on-the-spot rental).
IC TRAVEL CARDS
For overground/ tube and or bus journeys we would suggest getting an IC card (a rechargeable travel card) called SUICA or PASMO, both readily available in Japan. There are many regional cards that can only be bought in their respective cities- ie Osaka’s ICOCA, Fukuoka’s HAYAKAKEN, or Nagoya’s TOICA.
These cards essentially work the same as an Oyster card- useable on all public transport in place of paper tickets or cash- with the added bonus of their IC chip also allowing you to use them on vending machines, coin lockers and the majority of contactless card machines in stores.
The SUICA will be the most commonly provided card, and for first time tourists to Japan it is often recommend that they buy the ‘WELCOME SUICA‘, a prepaid travel card that is valid for one month. These cards will expire 28 days after they are activated, however, and any remaining balance will not be refunded, so take care to use the card at any opportunity you can. If you plan on visiting Japan again, it would be more beneficial to buy a standalone IC card that can be reused.
You can top up the card with cash at train stations and convenience stores around Japan. Be warned that you cannot pay to top up your IC cards with credit debit cards. Your SUICA/ equivalent IC card is a great way to safely travel around Japan if you have a large amount of cash you are nervous about losing, and will save you on foreign transaction fees for smaller or more frequent purchases.
CASH VS CARD
Japan is still very much a cash-based country. For street food, marketplaces and smaller/ non-chain restaurants in particular, be prepared to pay cash over card. Some taxi drivers may not always have card machines, so be sure to double check before you ride. Apple Pay is not accepted as widely in Japan as it is in the UK/US, and for those of you using Google Pay etc., be prepared for that not to work well, either. Make sure you always carry a physical card with you as a backup.
If you find yourself running low on cash whilst in Japan, head to a convenience store instead of a bank. Most banks and ATMs do not allow international cards to withdraw money. Instead, find a 7-11 or LAWSON convenience store and use the cash machine there, as not only do they have English language navigation, they also allow all international cards to be used for cash withdrawal. Be prepared for a small transaction fee (usually capped at ¥200, but results may vary) to be applied, so it’s best to take out larger sums at once instead of many separate times.
RUBBISH DISPOSAL AND (LACK OF) TRASH CANS
In Japan, there are not many readily available bins in public spaces like in other parts of the world. It’s always useful to take a plastic bag or ziplock with you during the day, so you can keep anything you need to dispose of and bring it home with you. Most convenience stores, fast food restaurants and cafes will have bins, but remember that they are reserved for customer use and won’t look too kindly on people who just use their bins and leave! Train stations will often have bins if you are overflowing by the end of the day- just be sure to follow guidelines on them as to which bin you should throw things into!
We recommend bringing your rubbish back with you and disposing of it at your hotel or in the appropriate bin in your AirBnb. Whenever you eat or drink at a coffee place or cafe, try to follow waste separation rules when putting away your leftovers. For a little look into what you may need to remember, we have some examples:
A half finished coffee with a plastic lid will be separated as such: liquid waste (coffee), burnable waste (paper cup, straw (if paper) and any used napkins) and plastic waste (lid, straw (if plastic), plastic stirrers/ spoons). Return any glasses/ mugs or trays to the correct area.
A fast food meal will be separated as such: liquid waste (leftover fizzy drink), burnable waste (any stray fries and the carton they came in, paper hamburger wrappers or boxes, straw wrappers, used napkins) and plastic waste (toy wrappers, drink lid/ drink cup (if plastic), used straw, ice cream spoons etc). Return any trays to the correct area.
It may seem a little mind boggling at first, but due to Japan’s very strict regimen of recycling, it’s crucial! Even if you don’t get it perfect, you’re still doing your part towards keeping Japan’s infrastructure flowing.
SHINKANSEN/ BULLET TRAINS
Many of you will have heard about the fabulous high speed trains that connect all of Japan. You can buy tickets online via the official ‘SMART-EX‘ website, and easily co-ordinate your outward journeys from the comfort of your hotel room. It will be easy enough to book a seat on the day of your journey, but you can also get tickets ahead of time. If you’d like guided help, head to the ‘MIDORI NO MADOGUCHI‘ area of the shinkansen station, and an advisor will help you purchase the tickets you need. Be prepared to line up!
If you have large luggage you must book a seat that allows for you to bring it with you. Be sure if you have luggage to try and book your ticket at least 24 hours in advance as they tend to disappear quickly. Cabin size cases/ backpacks/ duffel bags can be stored in the overhead luggage racks, or (if leg space isn't a concern) in front of you. Just be aware that they do not prevent anyone from moving in/ out of the aisle when you do this.
All bullet trains will arrive and leave very promptly. Please be sure to be on the platform at least 15 minutes before your train is due to arrive so that you can safely find your correct carriage. Similarly, be ready to depart from the train before it arrives at your stop, so that passengers waiting to board can safely enter. If you forget any belongings on the train, alert a staff member as soon as possible after departing and they will put in a notice to the driver so that it can be retrieved and sent back for collection from your station. Trying to jump back on the train to retrieve it is not only dangerous but very impolite as it will delay both the departing train and subsequent arrivals both in and out of the station.
EKIBEN AND OMIYAGE
One thing we always recommend people to do is buy something called an ‘ekiben‘ (short for eki bento, IE ‘train lunch’) before boarding your train! Shinkansen rides can often be very long, and many people take them as commutes, so it’s a great way to pass the time as you watch the scenery out of the window. In fact, it feels stranger if you don’t have an ekiben when you’re on the Shinkansen! It’s probably one of the only instances where eating and drinking on trains is encouraged…but more on that later.
Ekiben can range from a simple set of riceballs, to fish and meat on a bed of rice with side dishes packed in, to a gourmet box of sushi and fresh seafood. You can typically buy your ekiben from various kiosks and shops in the departure lounge area of train stations, with many places also offering quick snacks like crisps, nuts or sandwiches. Drinks like beer, wine and spirits are also available, for those of you looking to treat yourself! They also sell smaller selections of popular ekiben on the train platform, for those of you strapped for time. NHK have made a great video on ekiben culture and there are some amazing images of various specialty regional selections, too.
Speaking of regional specialities, when you are in the major hub train stations all around Japan, you will often see shops selling vast amounts of boxed goods wrapped in incredibly designed packaging, which people will be poring over before making their selection and catching their trains home. Omiyage (the general term for ‘gift‘) culture is huge in Japan! For many of us, when we visit other countries, we bring souvenirs back for friends and family like magnets, t-shirts or postcards. Well, in Japan, imagine this but turned all the way up to eleven!
In fact, in Japan, if you don’t return home with an omiyage from the place you visited, it can mean getting a very lukewarm greeting at the door. In Tokyo, it’s all about ‘Tokyo Banana‘, a melt-in-the-mouth cake filled with cream; in Hiroshima it’s ‘Momijimanju’, a maple leaf shaped cake filled with red bean paste; Kyoto means ‘Yatsuhashi’, a delicious baked cookie (or in it’s raw form, a thin and slightly savoury mochi) that encases a cinnamon, sesame or matcha jam.
Many places in Japan will have a certain type of food that they’re best known for- for example in Kyoto it’s matcha (green tea); in Nagoya it’s anko (red bean paste); in Osaka it’s okonomiyaki (savoury pancakes); and in Fukuoka it’s mentaiko (spicy fish roe). Next time you’re in these areas, keep an eye out for their specialty foods- we’re sure you’ll enjoy spotting them when you do!
MENUS AND FOOD
These days, a lot of restaurants/ cafes will have English menu options, but be prepared for not-perfect translations and more than likely a decent upcharge alongside the options. With the upward trend in international tourism in Japan, many people are noticing that restaurants are hiking up prices on the English language menus, so be prepared!
Google Translate app has a decent image translation option for places that may not have English menu options. The app will also come in handy when looking for ingredients and allergy listings in store bought food. A lot of chain izekaya (bars with a huge variety of snack foods) and family restaurants (all day diners) use tablets to order from, with the majority of these having main menu selectable English language options.
For those of you with food allergies or intolerances, especially if they result in anaphylaxis or if you are on a restricted diet for religious or health reasons, we recommend printing out an allergy card and showing it to your server before and during service. They will be able to let the staff know clearly what you can and cannot eat. We are more than happy to help you write one up, but you can find some good examples here.
As a word of warning for vegetarians and vegan visitors, the majority of Japanese food will often contain animal or fish products, so it’s best to check thoroughly online before deciding where to eat out. Some examples of innocuous sounding food that often has meat or fish in it would be potato salad, typically made with cured ham inside, or Japanese style omelettes, which are typically seasoned with dashi (fish stock). Most noodle soup dishes, even ones with vegetable toppings, will use some kind of fish or bone broth unless advertised as completely vegetarian.
ETIQUETTE/ GENERAL ADVICE/ DOS AND DON’TS
EATING: Eating/ drinking in the street, public transport is generally side-eyed. With cities so busy, large and heavily pedestrianised, eating on the street can cause not only the risk of spilling and staining but also unnecessary congestion, too- the pause to unwrap your food and take a bite may mean someone not quite making the crossing in time and missing their train! It may seem extreme, but even places like Starbucks will often provide a paper bag containing your drinks if you are taking-out, so you can go to a quiet bench or seating area (or home) to have your drink/ food.
PHONE ETIQUETTE: A big thing that may differ from your home country is using silent mode on your notifications/ ringtone when outside of your hotel and not making or taking phone calls on trains/ in restaurants/ crowded places. Listening to music or the latest TikTok on your phone without headphones is a big no-no, and if you are using headphones be sure the noise isn’t leaking out to your neighbour. Japan values peace and quiet, even in public spaces, and especially on public transport, so make sure you keep your voices down if and when you have a conversation with your travel mates.
TIPPING: Tipping is very rarely done in Japan, although times are changing and if you’d like to show your appreciation in monetary form, some places may accept. It isn’t exactly du jour, however, and 9 times out of 10 it will be refused or lead to confusion. If there is a tip jar in the place you are in, feel free to add to it- leaving money on the table may result in you being chased down by worried waitstaff who assume you forgot your change!
SMOKING: In the UK and Europe, smoking/ vaping whilst walking in the streets is a fairly common occurrence- whether it’s you or a friend or a stranger in the street, we don’t usually think twice about it. However, in Japan, it’s illegal to smoke outside of designated smoking areas. These are quite frequent and there are even smoking rooms in various department stores for those of you so inclined. Many convenience stores will also have small smoking areas outside. A small piece of advice for those of you looking to purchase cigarettes from convenience stores- they are listed under numbers, not names! If you want a certain pack, indicate the number, not the brand, and the clerk will be able to fetch them for you.
HANDY HINTS
ITINERARY OVERLOAD: It is so tempting to try and pack as many things as possible into your schedule when you are visiting somewhere new! For example, iconic hotspots in Tokyo like Shibuya Scramble, Skytree and Tsukiji Market (where many of you may plan to visit) are usually surrounded by a huge variety of interesting things that will most likely sidetrack you for hours. For example, did you know that Tokyo Skytree contains a multi-level shopping complex selling gourmet food, fashion, books, toys, electronics and beauty products? The surrounding area of Skytree also has a multitude of retro cafes, vintage stores and restaurants, as well as a famous street called ‘Kappabashi Dougugai‘ (‘Kappabashi Kitchen Street‘) where you can buy all kinds of tableware, utensils, famous Japanese handcrafted knives and even plastic food displays! So to put it simply, don’t pack too many bucket list things into one day- choose a couple of things, and explore! You never know what you’ll find!
TOKYO SHINKANSEN VS SHINAGAWA SHINKANSEN: For those of you who are travelling to and from Tokyo on the Shinkansen, we have one sage piece of advice: use Shinagawa Station when travelling. Neighbouring Tokyo station is an overwhelming multi-story maze of shops, underground department stores, food courts, restaurants and tube lines, and it’s easy to get lost even when popping to the toilet before your departure. Conversely, Shinagawa station has very clearly marked JR and Shinkansen exits and entrances, and is easily accessible via one connected walkway. There’s also a fabulously fancy food market selling specialty foods and gourmet meals in the JR gate!
TAXIS IN JAPAN: Something that will be quite novel in Japan is the fact that taxi doors open automatically for you. They also close automatically too! So there’s no need for you to open or close the door when entering or exiting the vehicle. In fact, it can often damage the door if you pull or push it shut. Trust the process and enjoy the little luxury of a hands-free taxi journey!
OUR FAVOURITE SPOTS
Yukari and myself have made a couple of Google Maps guides to Onomichi and Kyoto. If you’re in the area, feel free to take a look! We’ll also be updating this area soon with a list of our favourite places to eat, drink and shop in Japan, so watch this space! On that note, if you have any questions about what you’ve read, or want any extra details on a certain topic listed, feel free to pop us over an email. We’re always happy to help!